Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva “De Buris” 2009
Valpolicella is a land of great wineries, mighty producers, famous names and landowners renowned throughout the world. It is also, of course, a land of small producers, single-plot landowners and, most enticingly for the connoisseur, cult wineries. De Buris is one such cult winery – every drop in every bottle has been virtually hand-squeezed, pored over, thought about, considered. This riserva is particularly noteworthy, coming as it does from what we consider to be a five-star vintage, producing something really special indeed.
Assemblage: corvina 65%, corvinone 24%, oseleta 5%, rondinella 6%.
Winemaking: from the La Groletta vineyard in Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, ten hectares 250m above sea level made of clay and calcareous soil with a good component of limestone. Only the finest bunches are hand-selected and taken to the arele, where they are put through appassimento for 110 days. At the end of January the grapes are pressed, cryomacerated for 10 days and then fermented, for 30 days, in oak vats, with autochthonous yeasts. The wine is aged for 5 years is Slavonion oak casks of 15hl or 30hl, whereafter it is held back in bottle before release.
Colour: deep ruby.
Aroma: relatively restrained, remarkably fine fruit and spice notes, backed up by hints of liquorice and the darkest of chocolate.
Palate: powerful, yielding astonishing fruit and concentration, but with a streak of acidity holding the whole profile up on a taut wire. Integrated tannins carry it through to an immensely long finish.
Ageability: practically just having started, this wine will reward a lot of patience in the cellar.